Mon 20 February 2012
Arnon Grunberg blogs about Lublin (2)
2012/02/18 - Cloakroom
This afternoon I visited The Lublin Province Museum and The Chapel of the Holy Trinity. A uniformed man forced me to leave my jacket at the cloakroom. I suffered from the cold, but modest suffering can be uplifting.
I counted more guards than visitors in the museum. At exactly 3 p.m. a middle-aged lady opened the door to the chapel. I spent thirty minutes in the chapel with the middle-aged woman and a Polish couple.
My plan was to visit the synagogue after the chapel, but it had started snowing. Instead of going to the synagogue I went to hotel Europa.
“Do you have a bar?” I asked a lady at the front desk.
“Go one floor down,” she said.
I went to the basement, but there was no bar. There was a bathroom, and some offices. Finally I found the bar in a dark corner on the ground floor. There were many waiters and waitresses, but I was the only guest.
2012/02/18 - Trolley bus
A short drive
“To Majdanek Museum, please,” I said to the taxi driver. For some reason, I found it inappropriate to say: “To Majdanek, please.”
But the taxi driver answered: “Majdanek.”
It was a short drive, less than ten minutes from the city center. As a friend had told me, Majdanek is basically on the outskirts of Lublin. The taxi driver drove me right to the entrance of the camp. There was no guard, no ticket needed to be bought.
I encountered six people in the camp, which was preserved remarkably well. I walked to the mausoleum. On November 3, 1943 18.000 Jews were executed by firing squad on the place where now the mausoleum is.
The cold wind started bothering me; I left the camp and took a trolley bus back to the city.
Arnon Grunberg blogs on www.arnongrunberg.com/blog
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